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By George J. Roth

 

    Spring fishing season is just around the corner.  Anglers are waiting for the water to warm enough, for the bass to begin their annual migration to the shallows.  Tackle boxes have been sorted and rearranged a number of times.  Reels have been cleaned and lubricated with care.  This year’s favorite new line has been spooled.  That new graph and GPS have been installed.  You are ready to head to the lake, right?  Did you check your rod for any potential problems?  If not, you may be setting yourself up for failure in the future.           

    A fishing rod is a relatively low maintenance item.  There are no bearings, except for the one under the butt cap and locking nut…just kidding.  There is nothing to oil or grease.  So just what maintenance is required for your rod?

    The first thing I’d recommend is giving your rod a bath.  Just plain ole’ soap and water works just fine.  To clean the cork, I apply dish soap to a scotch pad and scrub.  The dirt and grime come off easily with this method.  If your handle is cursed with some pits, you can use a stiff bristled brush to clean the pores.  Other items used to clean the cork may include alcohol or Simple Green.  I don’t recommend applying the cork sealers, as it tends to make the cork brittle over time.   Use a toothbrush to clean inside of the guide frames and the ceramic inserts.  While performing this cleaning, you are likely to discover problems, which may have gone unnoticed.

    One of the most important items to contact your line is the guides.   You must insure that there are no damaged or missing ceramic inserts in the frames.  You can check for small cracks in the insert by running a cotton tipped swab inside the guide and twisting it.  If there is a crack, the cotton fibers will be caught inside it.  Make sure you check the tiptop, as that will take the most pressure and abuse, due to the severe line angles it must endure. That is not to mention being rammed into rocks and boat docks! It would be wise to check the tiptop, even if it is ceramic, as some of the lesser quality ceramics may groove over time and heavy usage.

    If you are using a rod with metal guides, check closely for grooves, which will result in line damage.  Check the guides to insure they have not become loose with use.  It is not uncommon to have a guide or two loosen or break free, when pulling them out of your rod locker.  There is a method to apply single-foot guides now, that all but alleviates the guide from being pulled from beneath the wrap.  This method is called the Forhan Locking Wrap.  The wrap actually wraps around the guide frame, to hold it securely in place.  While your are there, look closely at the guide frames, to insure a piece of the frame has not been broken.

    The finish on a rod should overlap the guide wrap sufficiently, to provide a waterproof barrier to the thread.   Tunnels are formed as the thread is wrapped over the guide foot.  This is a common area for finish failure.  This allows water to enter beneath the guide foot, eventually causing the thread to deteriorate.  This results in failure of the thread to hold the guide in position.   Some of the finishes become brittle with time and crack, especially at the tip of the guide foot.  This will also result in eventual wrap failure.

    I’d suggest that you check your reel seat for damage, especially the hoods and nut that screws over the reel feet.  They may be damaged through over tightening or by direct blows (blunt trauma) to the area.   Clean beneath the hoods to remove any dirt that may abrade the reel feet or inside of the hood and cause it to loosen over time.  Clean the threads of the reel seat with a brush at the same time you are cleaning the cork.  It will allow it to operate more smoothly.

    Another major area of focus should be the blank.  It is the most important part of your fishing “tool”.  It allows you to cast great distances and conquer stubborn bass.  The guides and reel seat allow the rod to be used in a more efficient manner.   The guides primarily direct the line from the tip of the rod, to the reel.  The reel seat holds the reel in a stationary position.   Remember the cane pole?  We’ve come a long way over the years.

    Check the blank for any cracks or dings in the blank that may have occurred when it got shut in the rod locker last fall or thrown in the back of the truck.  Some guys just have big feet and use them to locate their rods when they are lying on the deck!   The area of the damage will likely determine its significance.  Damage to the butt section is of less significance than damage to the tip section, which is more fragile.  The type of materials will have some effect, as well.  The higher modulus blanks will be more susceptible to breakage than a lower modulus graphite or fiberglass rod.  Attempt to determine if the damage is significant enough to cause failure when under a load.  If there is some question, perhaps the rod should be replaced.          .

    What about protecting your rod from your daily fishing excursions?  When I complete a new rod or clean a used one, I apply a coat of Johnson’s paste wax to the blank and reel seat.  We don’t have to worry about corrosion in our area, but it is a good idea to protect the rod so it will clean more easily in the future.  Carry your rod in a protected environment, such as a non-crushable rod tube or in your locker, to prevent accidental damage.  With reasonable care and routine maintenance, your rod will continue to serve you for years to come.

    Wishing you all tight lines and heavy stringers…just not heavier than mine!