HOME // CONSTRUCTION  // ORDER  // GALLERY // LINKS // ARTICLES

    I have been asked on various occasions, to describe the steps in constructing the RF Lite reel seat.  I am personally a "visual" person.  I have to assume that I'm not the only one in that boat...a Ranger, of course!  This article is not meant to state that this is the only way to construct a reel seat with an exposed blank section. 

    The advantages of the "RF Lite" reel seat, as opposed to the "Split Reel Seat" design, would be the increase in strength, due to the retained upper section.  It also provides a greater bonding surface which reduces the likelihood of the reel seat breaking loose from the blank.  It is claimed by the designer, Rich Forhan, that there is less tendency for the blank to break within the exposed blank section.  It had been observed with limited testing that a rod constructed with the split reel seat design, would have a tendency to break beneath the reel foot, when exposed to heavy loading stresses.  I am of the opinion that the RF Lite is superior to the Split Reel Seat design, and therefore recommend it when building a custom rod.

    I truly hope that this information will be of benefit to those rod builders that desire to modify their reel seat in order to obtain greater sensitivity from their rod.

REEL SEAT USED IS A FUJI ECSM 17/15.5

(A TCSM WOULD BE CONSTRUCTED IN THE SAME MANNER)

1.  The first step is to mark a line to be used as a guide, as you begin cutting and shaping the exposed blank area.  I use a No. 2 pencil, as it tends to show up well against the reel seat.  This line is 5mm  (3/16") below the flat portion of the reel seat.  My personal preference is to not extend the cut past the shoulder of the reel seat.

2.  The line has been enhanced with a white china marker.

3.  The reel has been placed into the reel seat and locked into position.  A mark was made at the tip of the pen to indicate where the threads would be removed.  By eliminating the extra threads, the index finger will be able to rest directly on the blank.  If threads remain exposed, it is irritating to the finger after a day of fishing!

4.  A piece of masking tape is wrapped around the reel seat to act as a guide when cutting the threaded portion of the barrel.  Note that the white line extends to the back of the exposed area of the ECSM reel seat.  In the case of the TCSM reel seat where no exposed blank area exists, follow the same line to remove the bottom section.

5.  I use a scroll saw to remove the threaded section of the reel seat.   Go slow, so the cut is as straight as possible.

6.  The table sander will help to provide a straight surface.  This surface will be exposed when the locking nut has been screwed onto the reel seat.  I prefer to apply a trim band in front of the reel seat and then an epoxy finish is applied against the reel seat surface.

7.  Preparing to cut out the bottom of the reel seat with the scroll saw.  Hold the reel seat in a perpendicular position.  You will only see the line on the top and the object is to cut as close to the bottom line as possible.

8.  By using a slow blade speed, the reel seat will be easy to manage as you cut along the corner.

9.  Just make sure you are wearing eye protection and KEEP YOUR FINGERS OUT OF THE WAY!

10.  This is the cut out section.  You can see the inside of the 17mm ECSM reel seat is fluted for increased adhesive load.  This should result in a more secure bond to the blank when compared to the conventional ECSM / TCSM reel seats.

11.  Even when you have done a few...you can still miss the mark!  ...but not to worry...

12.  I use the 1" belt sander to remove the material to the line.  Again, go slow as this can chew a hole straight on, or to the side...in a heartbeat!

13.  I smooth the ends of the cut out section with the belt sander, as well.  Again, watch the edge of the sanding belt as it will cut to the side, resulting in an unwanted groove.

14.  This shows the cut out area after completing the rough shaping process.

15.  The next step is to use the Dremel (I have the Stylus [pictured] and a 400 XPR) with the 115-High Speed Cutter to smooth the edges and to round the ends of the cut out section.  The sanding drum will work, but I don't recommend it. When using it, the reel seat material will melt, filling the abrasive surface and rendering it useless. Wear eye protection because the cutter rotation will be throwing debris at you...and into your eyes.

16.  I use a surgical blade (Exacto knife will work as well) and typically back drag the blade to smooth the edges.  The blade I prefer is a No. 11.  This results in a smooth surface, as if the cut out had been performed when it was originally constructed.

17.  The blade is also used to round the edges, so it is more comfortable to hold during a long day of fishing..

18.  I smooth the edges at the end of the threaded section of the barrel, as the index finger will rest against this area when palming the reel.  It will generally only be important if the locking nut screws down a bit further than you had measured. (# 3.)  This could occur when switching from one brand of reel to another...as the locking points may be a bit different depending on reel foot length and thickness.

19.  This is how the RF Lite modification should look.  The cut out area could have actually extended another 5 mm / 3/16" forward, if desired.  Rich's original design would have gone just in front of the shoulder, to the back section of the locking nut.  In that way, none of the barrel would have been visible.  My personal preference is as pictured above.

20.  This is my version of the completed RF Lite modified reel seat.  It is mounted on a Lamiglas IMC 966T flipping blank.  When gluing the reel seat into position, I prefer to use a liberal amount of Rod Bond.  Yes, it is messy, but I also insure that the edges of the cut out section are full of glue, which eliminates any gaps or crevices.  I finish the project by applying one or two coats of ThreadMaster, epoxy finish to the exposed blank area.  This produces a very durable, smooth surface and eliminates abrupt edges.  This results in a comfortable feeling reel seat, while enhancing sensitivity.

GOOD LUCK!

(8-2-2007)