Before ordering your rod components, we will need to discuss exactly what it is you are looking for in a rod. Once we have things narrowed down, I will submit an itemized invoice for your approval. If you are satisfied with the selections, then the components will be ordered from one or several suppliers, depending on availability of stock on hand.

 

Rod components are temporarily assembled, once they arrive, to ensure completness and a good fit. The rod will be spined (natural position when flexed), as that will determine placement of the reel seat and guides. Utilizing the spine will generally produce improved casting accuracy. It can also be used to improve rod strength when fighting a fish.

 

Clamping the cork ensures that the seams between the cork will be minimized. These cork rings were individually reamed to fit the taper of the blank. Both the cork and reel seat are attached to the blank, using a two-part epoxy glue. This ensures that neither the cork nor the reel seat, should ever come loose. Graphite arbors are used beneath reel seats requiring a spacer, and these are epoxied into place, as well. I don't use tape or cardboard spacers, that are likely to fail over time. This handle is for a split rear grip spinning rod.

 

Completed handle ready for shaping and sanding. This particular handle utilizes a Fuji graphite reel seat with an exposed area on bottom, to increase sensitivity. The larger cork rings behind the reel seat were used in anticipation of a "Power Hump" type handle, that was later not utilized.

 

Handles are shaped by hand using a rasp. Once the desired shape is obtained, the cork is then sanded with coarse paper to finish shaping and fitting. The finish sanding is completed with 600 grit sandpaper to provide a smooth surface.

 

Split rear grips on St. Croix casting rods. This makes two-handed casting more comfortable, especially when using heavier weights. It also reduces the overall weight of your rod. If you hold your rod along your forearm, the end section will be the only portion you come in contact with, thus, there is really no reason for the extra cork in the center. You will notice that there are no foregrips on these rods. The reason for this is that by palming the casting reel, you can place your finger on the blank, thus increasing your sensitivity of subtle bites. The reel seat is exposed on the bottom, to further increase direct contact with the blank. The exposed portions of the blank are taped off to protect them during the shaping / sanding process.

 

Finished handle as it appeared on the completed rod. The diameter of the handle can be sized to fit your hands, so that you are more comfortable fishing with your new rod, from dawn to dusk.

 

 

 

 

 

Decorative butt wraps are applied at this stage of the assembly. I have focused primarily on two wraps, one the Diamond Wrap and the other, the Chevron Wrap. These are a bit time consuming, as I do them by hand and don't use a power wrapper to speed the process. You also have the option of doing something very simple. At this point, you may decide on a hookkeeper. The positioning of the hookkeeper is your personal preference. A hole can be drilled in the trigger of a casting reel seat to serve as a hookkeeper, too.

 

 

 

Guides are placed on the blank in a typical placement. A static stress test is then performed to fine tune the guide placement. This procedure insures that the stress placed on each guide is equal, thus decreasing the liklihood of blank failure. The rod is then cast to ensure the guide placement is optimized, especially the first guide on spinning rods. Having the guide too close to the reel will choke the line, too far away, the line will slap the blank as it comes off the spool.

Guide feet are dressed by use of a Dremel. Thread is wrapped more easily onto a foot that is tapered. This provides a smooth transition of the thread from the blank to the guide foot. This also eliminates any burrs that could damage the underlying blanks.

 

With the guide wrapping complete the threads have color preserver applied to retain the original color of the thread. If you desire, color preserver can be withheld, to provide a darker, transluscent appearance, and you'll be able to see the guide feet beneath. Two to three coats of a two-part epoxy finish is then applied over the nylon threads to provide long lasting protection. The rods are placed on this rod dryer to ensure the finish dries evenly. This rod dryer was made by my son.

 

Once the rod has dried, it will be inspected, cleaned and a coat of wax is applied to the blank to afford further protection. It is then carefully wrapped in bubble wrap and placed in a PVC tube for shipping by either USPS or UPS. Once you receive your rod, I'd encourage you to get out and put it to the real test, against some fish! Good luck and happy fishing.